Living in Kuwait

General

Kuwait lies at the head of the Arabian Gulf, between latitude 28 and 30 north and longitude 46 and 48 east. The land area of Kuwait is approximately 7,500 square miles, or roughly the size of Wales and is for the most part, flat. It has no rivers and no lakes. It is bounded on the west and north by Iraq, on the east by the Arabian Gulf and on the south by Saudi Arabia. There are nine islands, the largest of which are Failaka, Bubiyan and Warba, although none of them are inhabited. The Head of State is the Amir, who has appointed a Prime Minister (who happens to be a relative) to oversee all things political. Kuwait is a modern state in many ways today, but much of it still holds the flavor of the event of its political independence, which took place nearly 250 years ago. The population of Kuwait is about 2.5 million, with one third of the population made up of Kuwaitis, and the other two thirds are expats. There are approximately 7,000 Americans, with Egyptians, Indians and Bangladeshis making up the majority of the expat population. While males and females each make up about half of the population, in the expat community 68 percent of the group is male.

Language

Arabic is the official language although English is very widely used and all road signs etc. are bilingual. English is also the official language for major contracts. Kuwaitis do not expect westerners to know their language and there is generally little difficulty in making oneself understood in English. It does however help oil the wheels if one comes out with the odd phrase or two of Arabic, particularly those of courtesy and greeting.

Climate

The ambient temperature is hot (to say the least) in summer, with official temperatures of 50°C being registered and 55 being the unofficial high in July and August. Humidity at this time of year is usually very low, due to the Northwesterly winds being hot and dry. Southeasterly winds, usually hot and damp, occur during July and October. Humidity can reach the 90% range at this time, making it extremely unpleasant, and spectacle wearers should take care when leaving air conditioning as a thick fog soon appears. What may also surprise you is how cold a winter morning can be. It has been known to approach zero, however hell very rarely freezes over. Sand storms are frequent especially in summer. Rain is almost nonexistent and comes in short bursts, when it can be bothered, and amounts to some six inches a year, however, due to poor drainage floods do occur, especially in low lying areas such as underpasses and basements, and deaths were reported last year due to not realizing that the road under a bridge isn’t actually flat. Summer is deemed to run from May to October & Autumn and Spring can be equated to an English summer, only dry! As an obvious word of warning, if you are a little thin on top (or have short cropped hair), wear a hat; a sun burnt scalp is not pleasant.

Local Customs and Traditions

Kuwait justifiably takes pride in its progress and modernization, but retains strong ties with cultural tradition. The religious heritage of Islam has provided the Arabs with a strict code of ethics which differ in many ways from those of the West, making the experience of living in Kuwait pleasant and interesting. Hospitality is a basic rule of life in the desert, and one is well advised to avoid admiring or praising to a great extent the belongings of one’s host. Guests should generally accept offers of food or drink and be free with compliments and thanks. Even shopkeepers will offer tea, coffee, soft drinks or water to browsing shoppers. The role of women in society is an evolving issue in the Muslim world, but the well-informed recognize the high esteem generally accorded women in Kuwait. In order to preserve that respect, visitors should take care to dress modestly whenever going outside their homes. Wearing of shorts, tank tops, form-revealing clothing etc. should be avoided in public. Alcohol and pork are prohibited in Kuwait. Non-prescription drugs and possession or use of illegal drugs is also prohibited. Persons convicted of drug or alcohol possession could face prison sentences and deportation.

Dress Code

When arriving in August, expect humid days with daytime temperatures above 120° F. Temperatures may be higher in July (avoid arriving in Kuwait more than about a week early), and humidity will get much higher in September. Clothes made of cotton or other “cool” fabrics are recommended. You will likely wear light clothing through October and again in March. Virtually all buildings and most cars are air-conditioned, so, believe it or not, a light sweater for wearing in-doors is advisable. Kuwait may well be the most air-conditioned country in the world and some buildings may be considered “cold”. Summer clothing for women should include light-weight dresses, slacks and loose-fitting tops. Shorts are not appropriate in public. Individuals adjust differently to Kuwait’s warm weather, but when temperatures drop in November, most find they have a lowered tolerance for cool temperatures as well. Freezing temperatures rarely occur in Kuwait, but the almost constant wind and the humidity intensify the cold. Warmer clothing is often necessary from November through March. Winter sweaters, skirts and dresses, long-sleeved blouses, medium to heavy-weight jackets or coats, a scarf, even a pair of gloves are recommended for winter weather. Semi-formal evening wear will occasionally be worn for special parties or functions but don’t forget blue jeans or other casual clothing for relaxed or recreational activities. In general, dress in Arab countries is quite conservative and more formal than the typical American dress. The most important thing to consider with respect to local customs is the code of conduct observed among Arab men and women. Departure from conservative behavior and dress by foreigners can be misinterpreted and even resented by host nationals. Common sense will dictate what to wear and what not to wear on any given occasion.

Religions

The Muslim place of worship is the mosque, of which there are more than 200 in Kuwait. Muslims are called to prayer five times each day, and the faithful, although preferring to worship in mosques, may choose to pray where they are: on the sidewalk, in shops, at home, or even at roadsides. Muslim worship includes ceremonial washing, removal of shoes, and kneeling prayer on a mat or rug while facing in the direction of Mecca. Friday is the weekly holy day on which men and some women go to the mosque to worship. Men and women worship separately, particularly in public places such as mosques. Most Muslims hold a great respect for Christianity. Westerners are expected to show respect for Islam, its customs and its religious holidays, just as Muslims do for Christianity. With the exception of a handful of naturalized Christian families, most of Iraqi or Palestinian origin, Kuwaitis are Muslim. The majority adhere to the Sunni (orthodox) branch of Islam, as does the ruling family. Other Kuwaitis, largely of Iranian and Iraqi origins, are of the Shia’ sect. The large majority of non-Kuwaiti Arabs are Muslim, although significant numbers of the Syrians, Lebanese, Palestinians, and other residents are Christian.

Religious Holidays

The religious holidays in the Islamic world are not determined by the Gregorian calendar but by the Muslim calendar. This is based on the phases of the moon and is approximately 11 days shorter than the solar calendar. Ramadan is one of the most interesting and is definitely the holiday that has the greatest impact on residents of Kuwait. It is a lunar month of daylight fasting — up to thirty days – during which Muslims allow nothing to pass their throats, including food, drink, or smoke, from sunrise to sunset. Even non-Muslims are required to observe fasting behavior in public. Cannons, as well as public calls to prayer from the mosques, announce the times for beginning and ending daily fasts. All government offices and most businesses adopt shorter daytime working hours during Ramadan, but shops stay open later in the evening. The school shortens the instructional day during Ramadan. A three-day holiday known as Eid Al-Fitr celebrates the end of Ramadan. Eid Al- Adha is a holiday at the end of Haj, the pilgrimage to Mecca, generally lasts four days. It includes Waqfa, the “feast of sacrifice”. On the first day of this holiday, pilgrims sacrifice sheep in remembrance of Abraham’s sacrifice. Waqfa, the day preceding the Eid Al-Adha, corresponds with the pilgrimage timing when Muslims stand at Mount Arafat. Islamic New Year is the beginning of the Hijra calendar. As with all other Muslim holidays, it shifts approximately 11 days forward in the Gregorian calendar each year. Ascension of the Prophet is the celebration of the Prophet Mohammed’s miraculous transition at night from the Al-Haram Mosque in Mecca to the Al-Aqsa Mosque in Jerusalem and his subsequent ascension into heaven on the horse, Al-Baraq.

Domestic Help

Domestic help is available on a part or full-time basis. Those who choose to sponsor a full-time live-in maid can expect to pay a visa fee of KD 200, a salary of approximately KD 60 per month, a placement fee of KD 200, and a round-trip air fare every other year. Part-time help will cost approximately KD 10 – 15 per day.

Pets

While climate, cost and government regulations neither encourage the bringing of pets nor contribute to the quality of life for pets in Kuwait, all services and good are available to support dogs, cats, etc. Many school employees do keep small pets, and a limited variety of animals are available for purchase locally. Teachers choosing to bring pets to Kuwait are advised to check with the airline about requirements and costs. The Kuwait Embassy in Washington, DC may be helpful in explaining Kuwait’s policies and regulations on importing live animals.

Kuwaiti Currency

The local currency is the Kuwaiti Dinar, usually written “KD”, sometimes before the amount, sometimes after. It is subdivided not into the normal 100 but into 1000 fils. There are 5, 10, 20, 50 & 100 fil coins and ¼, ½, 1, 5, 10 & 20KD notes. At the time of writing the exchange rate is approx. £2.00 to the Dinar and closely follows that of the US Dollar. It is freely convertible and has no restrictions, although you may not find any at some UK banks or airports (definitely not at Schipol). Both cash and traveler’s cheques are readily converted at the various money changers, but it would help to bring about 20KD in case of any hassle at the airport. All major credit cards are accepted in most shops (often with 4% surcharge for all but the large ones), however the Co-op for instance only accepts Visa (with reluctance) and your cards will work in some ATMs and can be used over the counter to obtain a cash advance.(See also arrivals below).

The Mail System

The local postal system is inefficient and letters can take weeks to travel literally a few meters, which contrasts greatly with air mail to and from the UK which can take as little as 3 to 5 days. A Post Office Box is recommended and only costs KD5 per year, however post does arrive at your residential address. Parcels can take a little longer and may have to go to either the Ministry of the Interior to be opened and checked, or to the main post office in Shuwaikh, you should receive notice of this at your box or door mat, by way of a green card. Of late, with the explosion of Internet Shopping, parcels from the likes of Amazon.Com seem to get through unscathed and will be waiting for you in your box unopened (if they are too big to fit , you will get a slip of white paper to notify that it has arrived). Also available are various courier services, e.g., TNT, D.H.L., FEDEX. Outgoing mail is OK but check first whether your company has a regular mailbag home before using it. It is generally best if you can take your mail to the post office, but if this is not possible there are a few post boxes dotted around (there’s one outside the Sultan Centre in Salwa) and occasionally they do get emptied. At the time of writing there are a few “Royal Mail” guys, showing the locals how it should be done. DO NOT SEND ANYTHING RELATED TO ALCOHOL, PORNOGRAPHY OR RELIGION. Anything judged to be illegal will be confiscated, and the addressee may be subject to prosecution.

Public Transport

Kuwait ’s bus system is neither excellent nor convenient and is not recommended. It, however, inexpensive and functional and does serve most areas of the country. The usual passengers are the third-world bachelor labourers residing in Kuwait. Like the bus system, Kuwait’s Orange Taxis are neither convenient nor excellent, but they are useful and reasonably priced for getting home from the airport. Althothey are not supposed to do so, the Orange Taxis do often stop on busy streets and expressways for passengers. They are not radio dispatched. They are usually driven by Kuwaiti owners. They have established routes and carry numerous passengers who are dropped off and picked up at any point along the route. Drivers often speak little or not English and are not accustomed to western passengers. Fares of these taxis are set, but passengers generally negotiate fares, except from the airport, the central bus station, and the main taxi stand in Kuwait City. Without a doubt, call taxis or dispatched cars are the most reliable and efficient of the transportation choices available to non-drivers in Kuwait. There are numerous call taxi companies with small dispatching offices throughout the city. Dispatcher and most drivers speak some English and are accustomed to serving Western expatriates. Rates are government approved. Whether one or more persons travel point to point, the total fare collected is the same. Thus passengers travelling together over the same route can share expenses and economize. Regular daily pick-ups at home or work can be arranged either through the company or a driver. No tipping is required.

Entertainment and Leisure

Newcomers to Kuwait may observe that a Western-style entertainment is in short supply, but most expats stay as busy and involved as they please. Here is a short list of some thing to do and places to see:

Zoo

Kuwait’s zoo is respectable, if small, and set in a peaceful park, which features playground equipment and rides for children and picnic benches and tables.

Beaches

Although most of the beaches have been cleared by ordnance crews, a degree of danger persists on all Kuwait’s beaches. Boating, jet-skiing, and wind surfing, scuba diving and snorkelling, swimming, and fishing are among the most popular recreational activities.

Camping

As with the beaches, the desert is potentially dangerous, but many families continue to explore, camp in, and enjoy the desert.

Doha

A traditional fishing village located half an hour’s drive from Kuwait City. Not only do the fishermen craft their own nets and build fish traps there, but the traditional fishing vessel known as the dhow is still constructed by hand without the use of power tools.

Entertainment City

A small, impressive amusement park complete with rides and arcades popular among the younger set in Kuwait. Although the park was dismantled and largely destroyed by the Iraqis, it has been restored and reopened to the public.

Aqua Park

At the base of the Kuwait Towers, this swimming park includes a wave pool and giant slides.

Theater Groups

The Kuwait Players and some fledgling theater groups are very active and present a variety of musicals and dramatic offerings several times a year.

The Kuwait Singers

This informal group of music lovers meet throughout the year to rehearse for a Christmas performance and occasional seasonal or special program.

Women’s Groups

The American Women’s League is an active group that sponsors regular meetings, a Christmas bazaar, and many activities for expatriate women and children. There is also active International Women’s Group in Kuwait.

Souks

The Old Souk in Kuwait is a fascinating area. You will find gold, spices, incense, oriental carpets, ordinary household goods, clothing and almost anything else one would care to purchase. There is also a Friday Souk where sheep, goats, birds, second-hand furniture, household items and a few antiques can be bought. Also available here are cleaning supplies, plastic and paper goods, etc.

National Museum and Art Museum

Displayed here is one of the largest collections of Islamic art in the Middle East. Until recently, on section of the museum was preserved in the deplorable condition left behind by the Iraqis.

Al-Qurain House

This house of martyrs was the site of a fierce and protracted battle between Iraqi troops with tanks and a group of ill-equipped Kuwaiti freedom fighters, many of whom died just hours before the Iraqi withdrawal from Kuwait.

Rajab Museum

This private collection of magnificent art pieces is widely regarded as the best in Kuwait.

Sadu House

This traditional Kuwaiti home features Bedouin weaving demonstrations and classes, and handicrafts.

The Science and Natural Science Museum

Just what the name suggests, this government museum is worth a visit or two.

Kuwait Towers

An important landmark of the city, the Towers feature panoramic views of the city and the Gulf. A restaurant, revolving snack bar, and observation deck are included in this magnificent modern symbol of Kuwait.

Cinemas

Numerous movie theaters are located in the city, but the Salmiya Cinema shows the films Westerners most want to see.

Health Clubs

Many health and exercise clubs are available, and each of the major hotels features and exercise and facility.

Ice Skating

Kuwait ’s ice-skating rink features family recreation time as well as segregated skating on a regular basis.

Golf

Kuwait is the home of three sand golf courses. Avid golfers may wish to bring golfing gear to Kuwait. Balls and tees are available for purchase, but clubs cannot be rented and are very expensive to buy, if available at all.

The Hunting and Equestrian Club

This recreational facility hosts numerous activities in addition to opportunities for equestrian showmanship and show jumping.

Fine Arts

Ballet and contemporary dance groups are available.

Darts

Kuwait owes its strong tradition of dart competition to its British heritage. Die-hard dartists may inquire among the British community for opportunities to participate in established leagues.

Shopping

Modern supermarkets stock goods from nearly everywhere in the world, including US brands of most products.

Restaurants

There are various American restaurant chains represented in Kuwait, such as Kentucy Fried Chicken, Hardees, Wendys, Pizza Hut, Baskin Robbins, Chi Chi’s, TGI Fridays, Kenny Roger’s Roasters, Fuddruckers, Burger King, Chili’s and McDonald’s. In addition to many ethnic restaurants such as Indian, Lebanese and Chinese, one can find international cuisine at the quality hotels.

Health and Hygiene

There are apparently no real health risks in Kuwait, however vaccination against TB is recommended, and cholera and yellow fever is required for those coming from infected areas. The major exception is a particularly nasty strain of flu which is prevalent at the end of Summer, when the temperature drops, this can cause great discomfort and sleepless nights, with the possibility of a couple of days off work to the less robust. Another problem is that of dehydration and as a consequence plenty water must be drunk, especially for those with jobs having an outdoor involvement. Note that all residents in Kuwait must undergo an AIDS test, with a positive result meaning immediate expulsion. (See also Medical Facilities)

Utilities

Electricity throughout Kuwait is 240v 50Hz with British style13 amp 3-pin square type power outlets and is usually included in your rent (even were it not, it costs 2fils/unit (0.4p)) unfortunately most appliances bought in Kuwait come with American two pin plugs, and if this wasn’t bad enough, most flats have only one or two single outlets in each room, resulting in Christmas tree adapters for Hifi and kitchen appliances. My new flat has plumbing for a washing machine, but no power point on that side of the kitchen! Tap water is desalinated and fluoridated and almost drinkable from the special filter tap in all flats but is it advisable to boil it first, however you may prefer bottled water to be absolutely sure. Cooking when not electric, BBQ or nuke is by bottled gas, available from outlets usually located next to a Co-op and cost ½KD for a large bottle which should last at least a couple of months, with one expat’s lasting a year!

Food

People are sometimes shocked to discover that Kuwait has over 50 McDonald’s plus many Burger Kings, KFC, Pizza Hut, Dominoes, Baskin Robbins, Chilli’s, Johnny Rockets, Fridays, Fuddruckers as well as local restaurants. A Chinese take-out can be found minutes away no matter where you live. Fish is plentiful and excellent with a local fish market that sells fresh fish every day.